Remember recently I promised that I would find that Kelly Slater video with the OUTSTANDING ADVICE on surfing?
Well I found it!!! WHOOO-HA! (here’s me doing the “Chicken Joe” dance in your head!)
Kelly Slater talks about surfing big waves - specifically surfing pipe when he was already recognised as an awesome surfer. Basically he was surfing pipe and 2 veteran surfers on the beach saw him and the one said to the other : “I think that Kelly can take off more at more of an angle and get deeper in the wave”.
Kelly Slater listened to Brock Little’s advice and put his fears at bay and really PUSHED as he realised that you can surf pipe, but to be the best - that’s not enough. He saw Ross Clark Jones pull this sort of a manoeuvre and getting over these fears helped Kelly become the best surfer in the world. I hope this inspires you as much as it did me.
I went for an afternoon surf yesterday - I was HUGELY excited - I had been working like a dog on springleap and the new MobileQandA.com and just needed to get out and get into a totally different headspace.
At first when I got there it was flat as a PANCAKE. Now real waves to talk about - then I noticed some super small waves peeling along Addington beach - and NO ONE THERE (except 1 dude - and he spent more time out of the surf than in). Sweeeet - perrrrrfect for a star amateur like myself.
Man - I am so glad I ditched my expectations - I had a BRILLIANT time. Rock on! (or should I say “Surf’s UP”?).
Anyways - a good lesson for me because I wound up pretty much having the whole beach to myself, and a super chilled out time with some bangin’ fun surfing small waves. Well…. reaaaaaallly small waves. I was surprised I even got a ride.
